Joan Didion cooked for a large crowd of her literary peers, but her menus relied heavily on simple stews and casseroles. Guests raved about his chicken hash. His collection of recipes, now open to the public at the New York Public Libraryincludes this variation, which makes a great post-holiday showcase for leftover turkey and gravy, and resembles the filling of a quiche, topped with Parmesan and baked until golden brown. Didion’s recipe suggested serving in two small copper pans, but few cooks today have those. A shallow baking pan or casserole dish will do. —Patrick Farrell
